Lagos

It’s better to look back on life and say “I cant believe I did that.” than to look back and say “I wish I did that”… GC Himani


Lagos is renown for a good party. I had a friend living there for the summer who could only recall 3 times she was home before the sun came up. This gave me a pretty good idea about what I was getting myself in for. When I finally got the chance to see this area for myself – I was honestly confused as to why it has become such a hub for drunk travellers.

There is nothing Portugese about Lagos. In fact, you could spend a week there and not find any Portugese food in the old town. It has every other cuisine you can think of, along with plenty of gelato. I felt like I was at home. There was Australians EVERYWHERE! They ran the hostels, the bars, the water sports, the bar crawls – the lot! That’s not a bad thing – Australians are friendly, social and extremely welcoming most of the time which probably adds to Lagos’ appeal however it’s certainly not a place to experience something foreign or unique. For this – you need to get out of the old city walls.

I prefer balance and managed to really enjoy Lagos when I left the city walls. So if anyone tells you that people only go to Lagos to party – it’s not true. I had an amazing time in Lagos and managed to find a whole world of things to do outside the party scene.

Where to stay?

Most hostels in Lagos are fully booked yet empty – because everyone is partying. It doesn’t matter what time of the day we are talking about. We were recommended to go and “see Cosimo!” Cosimo owns and runs Hostel La Dolce Vita which is also known locally as “Lagos Shared Rooms”. From the minute we entered, we were treated like his daughters. “Do you need me to do your washing?”, “are you hungry?”, “what would you like to do?”, “is this okay for you?”. He was a gem. We stayed there for 4 nights and absolutely loved it. One night he even cooked us his homemade lasagne to ensure we had a full stomach before we went out drinking and kept leftovers in his fridge for our late night return!! He never liked to turn people away so even spent nights sleeping on the balcony while others took his own bed. On top of his amazing cooking, he was a very fun character. He had great stories to tell and loved meeting new people. I miss Cosimo!

4 TOP LAGOS EXPERIENCES

1. P A R T Y 

First thing I noticed is that the bars and clubs are nothing spectacular. Considering it’s reputation I had pictured Lagos looking something like a small scale Ibiza. But it’s not. The main party area consists of a maze of small lanes with tiny bars dug into random corners. Music explodes from each door and you have promoters encouraging you to enter by enticing you with free shots. It works for most people. These bars are in fact just nightclubs. You cant really talk in ANY of them. They are pumping music from as early as 8pm with ecstasy and strobe lights. Don’t get me wrong – this is great however I personally, I like to drink at a bar. Especially at the start of the night. For me, good nights always starts with good conversations and company and you just end up in a club by default much later in the night. However, in Lagos, I found very few nice places to relax and have a drink. No wine and cheese bars and no nice cocktail bars. It was all premixed or preprepared or simply just made the easiest possible way. Most bartenders are backpackers themselves and have little skill in preparing anything unique. So personally, I didn’t like the idea of coming from the beach and walking straight into strobe lights and fist pumping techno. I did however embrace the Lagos experience so I could say I gave it a proper go. Here are some spots below to try:

  1. Mynt Bar – great live music fishbowl
  2. DC’s – for some fresh air as everyone drinks on the street
  3. Mellow Loco Bar – try the “volcano” cocktail and try playing darts afterwards (hilarious!)
  4. Three Monkeys – known for their beer bongs
  5. Inside Out – Try a fishbowl!
  6. Joe’s Garage – Best place for dancing
  7. Shakers Bar – the only bar open ALL day
  8. The Garden – my favourite place because it had lounges and a nice place to relax and have a conversation.

We met up with my sister and her boyfriend one night and managed to find an amazing place to get a good meal. Mullens prepared us an incredible duck and beef casserole which was deliciously tender. Yum! We sat there catching up and drinking wine (and forgetting about the party outside!) I would also recommend visiting Cafe Odeon for a huge cheap English breakfast and The International Cafe for an unforgettable pulled pork wrap!

2. G O  K A Y A K I N G 

kayakFor me, kayaking was the highlight in Lagos. There are many tour companies offering day trips to various locations.  The Algarve region is famously known to have the cleanest waters in Portugal. I have road tripped the coast of Portugal and would definitely agree with this! Most of them depart from Praia Porto de Mos and run set tours twice a day. We opted for a 3 hour tour to the famous grottos and caves of Ponta de Piedade. It cost us 25 euros each and was well worth it! We had a local guide who told us that we will be kayaking at least 7km (without wind) and we appreciated the warning.  We were ready.

The grottos are magnificent. The quality of the tour depends highly on the tides that day simply because some grottos are inaccessible during high tide. We were lucky enough to be able to see them all. On one occasion we had to get off our kayaks and swim under the rocks to reach the caves and the water shimmers a rainbow of colours due to reflection from the different rocks. It is truly beautiful. We went through some tight squeezes too which tested our strength and gave us a good laugh. The entire afternoon was so much fun. I couldn’t recommend it highly enough!

3. G E T  T O  T H E  B E A C H

10520822_10152285544113513_388968464267362938_nI had travelled up the coast of Portugal years before and unfortunately couldn’t swim anywhere because it was too cold. I am talking 9 degree water despite the fact that the outside temperature was 35 degrees celcius or more! And it wasn’t just me. The beaches were packed full of people and there wouldn’t be a single soul in the water. Luckily, Lagos was far south enough (and outside the Arctic current) that we could swim pleasantly. The beach is a great place to hang out and there are many to choose from. However because of the tides, some are only accessible early morning or late afternoon. If you head over the canal from the old city and walk down the beach 300m, you will come across a few men lazing around under umbrellas. They offer water sports. I guess you can do water sports in any European coastal area and are certainly not unique to Lagos however my memories here are pretty hard to beat. The 4 of us opted for a flyfish which was able to fit us all. Although a steep 10 euros for 15 minutes – it was constant laughter. The driver did everything in his power to ensure we all flew off at some stage and my sister even lost her pants a few times. Best of all we had a go-pro to capture it all. It was great fun.

4. W A L K  T H E  C L I F F S 

My friend and I could classify majority of our feelings into 2 states of mind. The first being “let’s do and eat whatever we want because who cares!” (which was 90% of the time) and the second being “I feel fat”. We constantly went through these “fat phases” and like any other backpacker – you begin to feel sluggish after weeks of overeating and partying. When we go through this phase, we generally encourage each other to put our runners on and incorporate sightseeing into a daily run. (note these ‘daily runs’ generally last 2 days)

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One day we got up early and exited the old city to the South and walked up past Praia Do Camilo (a stunning white sandy beach accessed by hundreds of tiny stairs) and all the way down to Farol da Ponta da Piedade. The walk was beautiful. It combined pathways with bushwalking with beach and stairs. The views were breathtaking! You could see all the way along the coastline and could access the cliff’s edge through tiny bush paths. It was so much fun and we enjoyed getting out in the fresh air to fight the hangover!

Essaouira

“An investment in travel is an investment in yourself.” – Matthew Karsten


Essaouira is one of those places that makes you question, “why haven’t I heard about this place before”? Or maybe you have. For me, I came across Essaouria from researching popular beach spots in Morocco and ideally a place to relax and escape the heat of the Sahara. Voila!

Essaouria is a stunning beachside city on the Atlantic coast of Morocco. It’s managed to keep its charm despite the large influx of tourists. It’s beautiful historic fort was built back in the 18th century and interestingly enough catered to a diverse range of religions including Muslims, Christians and Jews. I think this is a part of its charm – a church, next to a mosque, behind a synagogue. Not sure how many places in the world you can find that.

Because its such a popular tourist spot now, getting there is quite easy. I arrived on a bus with a tour group from the Sahara desert (a whole other story!), however from Marrakech you have a variety of options. Click here for regularly updated details from Wikitravel.

Hidden entrance to the oldest church in the city

Hidden entrance to the oldest church in the city

Where to stay?

Although on a backpacking trip, there are times when you need a break from hostel accommodation and get comfy nights sleep. I stayed at Riad Chakir Mogador. It is perfectly located within the old town with a very short walk to the beach. Beds were comfy and the bathrooms were all antique and quirky. There are many hostels around though so check out hostelworld.

TIP: Many sweets here are disguised as ‘space cakes’ and locals will try and tell you that it is legal to consume small amounts. Do not listen to them and watch out as there are undercover police.

FUN FACT: Game of Thrones had numerous scenes filmed here from Season 2.

3 TOP ESSAOURIA EXPERIENCES

1.  F O O D

Essaouria can cater for fine dining all the way down to a backpacker budget. I was lucky enough to try both ends of the spectrum.

1. Elizir – I had heard about this place from Tripadvisor actually. It had some strange reviews like “not what we expected but had an amazing time” and “loved the quirky setting” so I needed to try this for myself. Ultimately, the restaurant is a converted residential mansion in the main street. Each table is privately placed within alcoves, balconies or small lounge rooms with fire places. It actually feels like you are sitting in someones living room. It has a very exotic yet homey feel. We went in a group of 8 so managed to order a wide range of dishes and share (which is always my preferred dining option) My favourite dishes were the tagines. We had both the lamb and apricot as well as the chicken and fig. It was incredible. If your hungry – get the mint gnocchi!

For a local experience head to Le Sirocco or Tara Cafe for its famous traditional pastilla!

2.  H O R S E  R I D I N G  O N  T H E  B E A C H

horse

Galloping on the beach

horseWe had stumbled across a man with a sign advertising horse riding. It was a very spontaneous decision but for only 150MAD – we couldn’t pass it up! We got picked up from our hotel early one morning and was driven there. We honestly had no idea where we were going because the beach was literally 100m away. Why did we need to get into a car? But the driver didn’t speak English. We decided to go with the flow. After a 10 minute drive, we made it to a very quiet area of the beach. We were put straight onto a horse. There was no questions such as “have you ever ridden before?” or “do you know how to ride a horse?” or even “welcome”. Bang! It started. We were expected to be able to ride the horses immediately which we found hilarious. At home, the OH&S introduction would take up half the riding time! But anyway, one man on another horse started trotting away through a parkland and we kicked the horses to follow.

My horse was really disobedient. He kept breaking into a trot when I just wanted to walk so I had to keep pulling the reigns back. We soon got the hang of it and really started to enjoy it. Then we reached the beach. It was breathtaking. It was a sandy, white stretch of deserted beach and he turned to me and said “OK Gallop now hold on”. Ahhhhh no I don’t think I am ready to gallop. No choice. The horse broke into a high speed gallop down to the shore line before I could even answer him. The man had my camera so galloped along beside me taking pictures. He made it look really easy and I was gripping the horse for dear life. He stopped me and told me to relax. The horse was GALLOPING I couldn’t relax or else I would fall off but he gave me some really good advice about how to lean and where to hold and before i knew it – the horse broke into a run again and it was EASY! I was LOVING it! It was one of the best experiences I had in Morocco. We could ride the horses around wherever we wanted to go. The guide didn’t even care. The freedom was amazing.

3.  L E A R N  A B O U T  A R G A N  O I L  P R O D U C T I O N 

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A local Berber woman grounding argan seeds

Argan oil has been a key component in Moroccan traditional medicine for centuries. Today there is great exploitation of the argan forests because of the cosmetic values of argan oil. It has also become very expensive. You need 40 kg of raw fruits to extract 1 kg of oil and it takes about 8 hours of manual work, mostly by women. It is now in huge demand by global cosmetic companies so there are literally thousands of women working in cooperatives across the country. Although it’s hard work, it has empowered women and created many many jobs. By visiting a cooperative producing oil, you are supporting these women. They produce there own products too and the profits benefit them directly rather than large global giants.

I visited a factory in the nearby town of Agadir which is about 20km south of Essaouria. We were taken through the process by an English speaking guide. She explained how the oil is extracted and we saw women first hand undertaking each step. She explained some of the benefits of argan oil and why is has become so popular. Some of the benefits are listed below:

  • Antioxidant10561773_10152267659728513_5205847608080779312_n
  • Anticarcinogenic
  • Lowers high blood pressure
  • Reduces “bad” cholesterol levels
  • Improves Rheumatic and joint pain
  • Stimulates brain capability
  • Facilitates digestion
  • Strengthens hair and nails
  • Moisturizes and stimulates skin regeneration and oxygenation
  • Provides elasticity to skin
  • Anti wrinkle properties
  • Promotes cell renewal
  • Healing qualities for scars
  • Treats skin conditions such as: acne, eczema, pregnancy stretch-marks, burns, psoriasis, and chicken pox
  • Neutralizes free radicals

At the end of the tour we were shown to their local shop where they mix the oils with other herbs and creams to create their own line of products. I bought a beautiful skin cream (probably the same ingredients as an expensive Estee Lauder) for a very cheap price. (For the record the cream was amazing!!) Definitely worth a visit. Many tour companies organise trips there or you can simply grab a taxi to the nearest one and walk through for free.

TIP: On your way, keep your eyes out for goats climbing argan trees! They enjoy eating the berries at the top and its amazing watch!

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Goats climbing argan trees!